Ocean Waves Sinusoidal Regression By Pratik Shukla Nightingale
Breaking waves drive nearshore circulation and transport sediment, leading to the morphological evolution of a coast. This effectively flattens the coastal topographic profile, making it shallower offshore, and thus shifting the wave breaking point offshore. The surf-zone then turns into wider and extra power is dissipated away from the beachface, which finally leads to smaller…